Old Honda motorcycle parts: Lights issue

by Goldie 2. October 2011 11:39


Do you have really old Honda motorcycle made before 1980s? If you do and you’re trying to find old Honda motorcycle parts, you might find your solution here.

 Some guy had lights problem with his old 1979 Honda CX 500 motorcycle when turning the key and we tried to help him. Since Cycle-Parts.com is a company providing motorcycle parts produced mostly after 1980 we can’t meet our customers’ needs with really old Honda motorcycles.  

This guy’s problem more precisely was with the headlight, neutral light; tail light, blinkers and horn.

Situation no. 1. The ignition switch base could be down. Get new one and replaces it. If it works than you’re done with this issue, if not than we are going to the next step.

Situation no.2. Clean the connections to the battery, and check the fuses back by the battery and also those under the plate at the handlebars. If everything is okay than you should buy cheap 12v test light and start with the battery leads and move forward on the red and black wires with the switch on. If power is coming out of the battery connections, you should go up front to the switch and see if power is coming in and then out again. The motorcycle parts wiring diagram can be found here.


Common motorcycle part issues at 1980 Honda CB650

by Goldie 18. September 2011 06:55

Every motorcycle series have common motorcycle parts issues more or less. One of these 1980 CB650 Honda motorcycle parts issues is turning off the field rotor when the charging voltage is too high; making the charging drop in which case the regulation circuit turns the field rotor back on. This issue sometimes is manifested similar to when the motorcycle is running out of gas.

The motorcycle ignition is battery-powered, so when the voltage drops down bellow 13.5V, the ignition system components shot down. Diagnosing bad rotor is easy, mount volt-ohm meter for testing the charging system output and the ohms value on the rotor tracks cold or hot.

Bad rotor can also cause bad regulator. When the rotor fails it draws too much current for the regulation circuit to supply, causing the regulator to die. This way this motorcycle part dies alongside the rotor.

Loss of spark can be caused by bad connection somewhere. Suspect any connection in the entire motorcycle. You can start diagnosing bad connection by taking off fairing motorcycle parts, the gas tank and seat, and disconnect all connections you find. Do these one at a time, and spray them with a contact cleaner before filling the connector again.

Also another motorcycle part could be suspected for resolving the issue. There is a vacuum-operated valve on these motorcycles. There is a fuel screen inside the fuel tank which requires draining the tank and removing the valve to draw the screen out from the inside the fuel tank. 

How to change a battery on a Honda Nighthawk?

by Goldie 11. September 2011 07:22

You can learn how to change the battery at Honda Nighthawk by following this 6-point list of instructions connected with moving several Honda motorcycle parts:


1.   First motorcycle part you need to remove is the right side cover. For removing this motorcycle part first you need to remove the seat. The side cover is held in place by rubber grommets. You need to pull at the front of this motorcycle part (the grommets are at the front of the side cover) in order not to break the side cover.


2.   Remove the battery case door bolt


3.   Slide the battery towards you


4.   Disconnect the negative battery cables  and the positive battery cable


5.   Remove the battery


6.   Hook up  the ground cable and then the positive cable


This motorcycle parts instruction is really simple and it should be done without any hardness except the first point. That’s why we dedicated more lines in explaining – just to make sure you don’t break any motorcycle part. 

Universal motorcycle parts issues

by Goldie 2. July 2011 02:07

Do you have Harley Davidson motorcycle that warms up while running? What happens if you run your motorcycle with wrong battery.

The answer to these questions sometimes is simple and sometimes you’ll need help from experts to solve the issue. The following issues are more or less represented at same-brand motorcycles:

Issue 1:  Motor warming up at Harley Davidson.  Accompanying to this issue is having difficulty when getting into neutral while running and when you have to stop at traffic lights. On the other side your motorcycle doesn’t have difficulty getting into neutral before starting it.

Solution 1: There is no real solution for this issue because it’s quite common at many Harley Davidson motorcycles. Sometimes helps changing the oil into a different brand.

Issue 2: Running a motorcycle with wrong. Having installed wrong motorcycle part in your motorcycle is really wrong decision.  The charging system can be damaged and it might overcharge and blow out most of the light bulbs including the expensive front headlight.

Solution 2: The solution is preservation your motorcycle by installing original motorcycle parts.

Issue 3:  Old motorcycle doesn’t want to idle down. This motorcycle parts issue is common with old motorcycles that weren’t running for years.

Solution 3: The issue in the vacuum leaks around the shafts through the body that the butterfly valves pivot on. Sometimes they cause the linkage to bind up not letting the RPMs to drop off quickly. You can help to reduce the problem by backing out the mixture screw 2-3 turns.  


Having difficulty finding Honda motorcycle part, thermostat?

by Goldie 12. June 2011 04:16


One of our customers had difficulty finding the thermostat at his old 1986 Honda VT700C SHADOW. Consequently we thought this can be great opportunity for brand new do-it-yourself blog post. Often, ignorant motorcyclists are put in situation where they cannot find specific motorcycle part in their own motorcycle. As we mentioned above our customer was suspecting that the thermostat or other accompanying VT700C Shadow motorcycle part was having an issue.

The first frontier he runs onto is the missing knowledge for where the thermostat is actually located. The problem was with the gage going in red - misleadingly alarming that the motorcycle is overheating.

First thing we should do is to locatŠµ the thermostat which is below the coolant filler cap. The best way to find the thermostat at any vehicle is to locate several motorcycle parts. The first motorcycle part for locating is the top radiator hose and then you should track it backwards. This will guide you to where the hose appends to the thermostat housing.

Second, if the motorcycle is really overheating than the radiator fan should come on.

Third, if the fan doesn’t come on then you may have a faulty fan. You can check if this motorcycle part is working by unplugging it and connecting it to 12 volts and see if it turns.

Fourth, if the fan turns fine but still never comes on when the motorcycle is overheating than the fan sensor or wiring may need checking.

It wouldn’t be bad if you ensure the cooling system is full and all the air is out before you put the filler cap on. You can move the motorcycle a bit back and forth to release any possible trapped air in the system.  Hope this post will be useful in future for motorcycle population.

BTW Cycle-parts run promotional offers nonstop. Now you can use the coupon code SUMMER in the shopping cart to apply for 10% off discount. The only precondition is that your motorcycle parts order should be over $165. The promotional period end on Friday, June 24th at 11:59pm. 


Motorcycle parts knowledge: Slide Carburetor

by Goldie 26. March 2011 01:48

So, what’s the main motorcycle part difference between non-slide carburetor and the direct slide carburetor.  Today we’ll be talking about next carburetor in the evolving chain- The Direct Slide Carburetor. These carburetors were motorcycle parts on many street motorcycles until the early 1980s and they are still motorcycle parts of choice for racing motorcycles. In the previous blog post “Basic knowledge for motorcycle parts: Carburetor” we’ve been talking about the simplest carburetor on which mechanism are based all nowadays carburetors.

The name shows the difference - instead of a throttle butterfly, slide motorcycle part is used in the middle of the venturi part – it opens and closes off the supply of air to the engine.  Furthermore, because of the varying size of the venture it is also needed to vary the size of the fuel jet. This is done by adding tapered needle to the bottom of the slide that runs down into the jet at partial throttle openings. Once it opens the slide all the way, we are back to a standard venturi size, the needle is pulled out of the jet and we’re back to our fixed air to fuel ratio.

The reasons they are still used are they are easy to tune, only have one major moving motorcycle part, and when the slide is wide open, they don’t present any restrictions to the airflow. And of course nowadays they come with build-in computerized compensation system.  This motorcycle part is called the rider! It allows you to automatically compensate for the rate of opening for the engine’s speed and load.

The famous “flat-slide” carburetors are built this way. The side itself is flat if looked at from the side when compared to the older round slide carburetor. The major benefits are lighter slides, less potential slide friction, and the ability to build a shorter venture passage, increasing potential airflow a bit more. They are also harder (more expensive) to build 


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